-
·
Balkan Wine: The Jan Brady of the Wine World
If I’m thinking about wine, the Balkans isn’t the first region that comes to mind. Heck, it’s not even the 33rd. And yet – Balkan winemaking has roots stretching back more than 6,000 years. Older than Bordeaux. Older than Burgundy. Older than most of the national borders we recognize today. And still, Balkan wine remains…
-
·
🌍 River Cruise Wrap-up, Part II: The Challenges and Rewards of Traveling in Eastern Europe
Last year we traveled through nine Eastern European countries – Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania in the spring, followed by Hungary, Slovakia, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, and Romania on our recent Danube River cruise. And the one thing that unites all of them is a chapter that Western Europe simply doesn’t have: the Soviet Occupation Chapter. But…
-
·
🚢 River Cruise Wrap-Up: The Pros and Cons of River Cruising
I learned a new acronym yesterday: BLUF. It stands for Bottom Line Up Front. I like it. So, BLUF: Would I go on another river cruise? No. Not unless I bring my own squad. Then, I would consider it. I’ll explain. Now that I have a grand total of three cruises under my belt –…
-
·
🇧🇬 Ruse: The Little Vienna (?) of Bulgaria
Good morning from Ruse, Bulgaria – about 75 kilometers south of Bucharest, Romania. Viking had the herd buses lined up and ready this morning. One was going to a monastery made out of rocks. Maybe interesting, but also a 2 hour bus ride. Pass. The other bus was a shuttle into town. Kind of a…
-
·
🇧🇬 Vidin, Bulgaria: Tracksuits, Roses, and an Underground Communist Toilet
Good morning from Vidin, in the extreme northwestern part of Bulgaria, on the border with Romania. What to say about Vidin? If someone were to design a travel brochure for Bulgaria, Vidin isn’t going to make the cover. Hell, I’m not sure Vidin would make page six. Vidin is one of Bulgaria’s oldest cities –…
-
·
🇷🇸 Golubac, Serbia: A Demanding Hike & Scenic Sailing. PLUS: A Poll
We’ve got white caps on the Danube today. Everyone is seasick. Kidding. Well, I overheard one lady say she was seasick. Not sure how. Being on a river boat is like sailing on glass. I think she might be confusing seasickness with some sketchy goulash. Viking’s Demanding Hike Early this morning, Ken went on what…
-
·
🇷🇸 Belgrade: Three Weddings and a lot of Gray
We are docked in Belgrade, Serbia today. And we can walk into town from the port – no herd bus. Huzzah! If nothing else, I’ve learned a lot more about Eastern European / Balkan geography on this trip. Belgrade is located at the meeting point of the Danube and Sava Rivers. The Danube connects Belgrade…
-
·
🇭🇷 Osijek & Vukovar: Homemade Brandy and the Scars of War
Good morning, Croatia. Woke up to more fog, but prettier fog. Celebrating our 33rd wedding anniversary today. I got Ken a very special anniversary gift this morning – Diet Coke for breakfast. We are docked in eastern Croatia along the Serbian border, in the town of Vukovar, which saw intense combat during the Croatian War…
-
·
🍷 🇭🇺 What to Drink in Hungary: A Sip-by-Sip Guide to Hungarian Drinks Culture
I’ve been studying wine and spirits for over two decades. Whenever we travel, I’m obsessed with what I call drinks culture — what a country’s drinks reveal about its people, history, and habits. I’ve been known to order several drinks off a menu – just so I can taste them. And I could spend hours in the…
-
·
🇭🇺 Kalsoca, Hungary: Four Horsemen and a Babblefish
Woke up this morning to a breathtaking view of … fog! Back on the herd bus (goodie) after breakfast for the 45 minute ride to our first stop. Woman across the aisle from Ken has not stopped talking since we sat down. How can anyone have this much to say about absolutely nothing before 0800?!?…
-
·
🚢 Embarkation Day: Irish Goodbyes, Tokaji Wine, and a Stolen Passport
We were warned several times that we would be the youngest people on a river cruise. At first glance, can confirm this is true. Ken and I are both a little nervous about the potential for herd tourism on a river cruise – everyone following a guide carrying a flag on a stick. Neither one…
-
·
🇸🇰 Slovakia: Mission Accomplished
Budapest is only about an hour from the Slovakian border. So, I’m on a mission to visit Slovakia today. I’m a compulsive country collector. If I’m within an hour of a country I haven’t been to before, take it to the bank – I’m going to try to get there. I’m not sure when or…
The Flask Half Full
Because the best stories rarely make it into the brochure.