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🇭🇷 Osijek & Vukovar: Homemade Brandy and the Scars of War
Good morning, Croatia. Woke up to more fog, but prettier fog. Celebrating our 33rd wedding anniversary today. I got Ken a very special anniversary gift this morning – Diet Coke for breakfast. We are docked in eastern Croatia along the Serbian border, in the town of Vukovar, which saw intense combat during the Croatian War…
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📸 🇭🇺 Photo Essay: Budapest & Hungary
We spent four days in Budapest in advance of our Danube River Cruise. And as much as the photographer in me wants to be using my Leica or my Nikon, you cannot beat the iPhone camera for convenience. It has become my go-to travel camera – it fits in my pocket (or purse), weighs next…
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🍷 🇭🇺 What to Drink in Hungary: A Guide to Hungarian Drinks
We spent four days in Budapest before our Danube River cruise, which gave me plenty of time to investigate Hungary’s drinks culture. And Hungary gave me plenty to investigate. So, what do Hungarians drink? Start with pálinka, the country’s famously potent fruit brandy, Unicum, the bitter herbal liqueur Hungarians inexplicably keep drinking on purpose, and some…
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✈️ Travel in Our Rearview Mirror: 2025
2025 was an ambitious travel year for us. We continue to enjoy the hell out of our retirement – trying to travel as much as we can. We have the time, and while both of us continue to enjoy good health (knock on wood, throw salt, and whatever other magical superstition applies), we’ll continue this…
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🇭🇺 Kalsoca, Hungary: Four Horsemen and a Babblefish
Woke up this morning to a breathtaking view of … fog! Back on the herd bus (goodie) after breakfast for the 45 minute ride to our first stop. Woman across the aisle from Ken has not stopped talking since we sat down. How can anyone have this much to say about absolutely nothing before 0800?!?…
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🚢 Embarkation Day: Irish Goodbyes, Tokaji Wine, and a Stolen Passport
We were warned several times that we would be the youngest people on a river cruise. At first glance, can confirm this is true. Ken and I are both a little nervous about the potential for herd tourism on a river cruise – everyone following a guide carrying a flag on a stick. Neither one…
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🇸🇰 Slovakia: Mission Accomplished
Budapest is only about an hour from the Slovakian border. So, I’m on a mission to visit Slovakia today. I’m a compulsive country collector. If I’m within an hour of a country I haven’t been to before, take it to the bank – I’m going to try to get there. I’m not sure when or…
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🇭🇺 A Food Tour of Budapest: You Only Think You’re Full
Today’s activity: A food tour of Budapest with our charming local guide, Dorá. If you’ve been reading my blog for any amount of time, you know I’m a firm believer that one of the best ways to get to know a country is by experiencing its food and (especially) drinks. Whenever we visit a new-to-us…
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🇹🇷 🇭🇺 Istanbul to Budapest: A Security Surprise, Bullet Holes & Wine Tasting
Phone. Wallet. Passport. On the move today. New experience unlocked: in Istanbul, you have to go through a full security check just to enter the airport. They aren’t messing around. But they are also not especially organized. A massive crowd, and total confusion about which line you’re supposed to be standing in. Good times. So, heads up…
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📸 🇹🇷 Photo Essay: Istanbul, Türkiye (and a few closing thoughts on the city)
We were on the ground in Istanbul for less than 48 hours. There was A LOT to absorb – overstimulating is probably the right word. I felt like I was taking pictures of everything and nothing at the same time. And as much as the photographer in me wants to be using my Leica or…
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🍷 🇹🇷 What to Drink in Istanbul: A Sip-by-Sip Guide to Turkish Drinks Culture
I’ve been studying wine and spirits for over two decades. Whenever we travel, I’m obsessed with what I call drinks culture — what a country’s drinks reveal about its people, history, and habits. I’ve been known to order several drinks off a menu – just so I can taste them. And I could spend hours in the…
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🇹🇷 How Much Can You Cram Into a Single Day in Istanbul? Buckle Up.
We covered a LOT of ground today. (Fair warning – this is going to be a longer post than usual.) Super grateful to our guide, Necdet, for shepherding us through his beautiful (but chaotic) city. Spent most of the day crowd surfing through the must-sees of Istanbul: the Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern, the Blue…