On the move again today – a Baltic road trip from Tallinn, Estonia to Riga, Latvia. And another new country for all of us!

Weather update:

A Last Word on Tallinn

I was very impressed with Tallinn. 9/10 – would absolutely recommend/revisit.

On the Road – Tallinn to Riga

Stopped to stretch our legs in the seaside town of Pärnu, Estonia. Our driver said Pärnu is a bustling city during the summer months. In April, though? Mostly closed for the season. Not much to see. But we found a clean WC, so call it a win.

Our driver, Karlis, speaks three languages. Latvian, English, and Russian. He said he learned English in secret as a boy, during the Soviet occupation in the 1980s, from an old Jewish woman who did lessons in her home. Had she been caught, she probably would have been “disappeared “.

Lunch Stop: Traditional Latvian Canteen

Had a cultural experience for lunch. Karlis said we were going to a traditional Latvian “canteen”. Had brief visions of the Star Wars bar, but turned out to be more of a cafeteria. Was asked if I cared for some fresh blood sausage. Hard (but polite) pass. Had this chicken log with beets and a fresh pickle instead.

Turaida Catle

Another stop on the way: Turaida Castle in Latvia, which used to be the headquarters of the Archbishop of Somewhere Relatively Important during the 14-16th centuries. The castle had something for everyone – a tower for Ken to climb, an exhibit on the Reformation for Dad, and a (very cold) bench for me to sit on.

First Impressions of Riga

Arrived safely to our hotel in Riga. First impression: there is a lot more legacy “Soviet feel” to this place. The basic rule for architecture in the Baltics is this: if it’s ugly, gray, bleak, and/or box-shaped, the Soviets built it. Officially, the style is called Brutalism – which seems apropos.

Linguistically, Latvian is absolutely nothing like Estonian. Officially, Latvian is classified as one of only two Baltic Languages (the other is Lithuanian). Unofficially, it’s classified as moderately impossible.

Trying the National Drink of Latvia

Tried the national drink of Latvia tonight – Riga Black Balsam. Created by a pharmacist in 1752, Riga Black Balsam is an herbal bitter. And wow did they not skimp on the bitter. Tastes like Vicks 44D. Definitely do not need more of this. Our waitress at dinner said people drink it because it “can make you feel better”. Eh. Debatable.

Bonus: A couple street photography shots from Riga.

Terviseks! (Have not learned how to say cheers in Latvian yet.)

Travel date: April 7, 2025