On the move again today – a Baltic road trip from Tallinn, Estonia to Riga, Latvia. And another new country for all of us!
Weather update: 
A Last Word on Tallinn
I was very impressed with Tallinn. 9/10 – would absolutely recommend/revisit.
On the Road – Tallinn to Riga
Stopped to stretch our legs in the seaside town of Pärnu, Estonia. Our driver said Pärnu is a bustling city during the summer months. In April, though? Mostly closed for the season. Not much to see. But we found a clean WC, so call it a win.
Our driver, Karlis, speaks three languages. Latvian, English, and Russian. He said he learned English in secret as a boy, during the Soviet occupation in the 1980s, from an old Jewish woman who did lessons in her home. Had she been caught, she probably would have been “disappeared “.
Lunch Stop: Traditional Latvian Canteen
Had a cultural experience for lunch. Karlis said we were going to a traditional Latvian “canteen”. Had brief visions of the Star Wars bar, but turned out to be more of a cafeteria. Was asked if I cared for some fresh blood sausage. Hard (but polite) pass. Had this chicken log with beets and a fresh pickle instead.
Turaida Catle
Another stop on the way: Turaida Castle in Latvia, which used to be the headquarters of the Archbishop of Somewhere Relatively Important during the 14-16th centuries. The castle had something for everyone – a tower for Ken to climb, an exhibit on the Reformation for Dad, and a (very cold) bench for me to sit on.
First Impressions of Riga
Arrived safely to our hotel in Riga. First impression: there is a lot more legacy “Soviet feel” to this place. The basic rule for architecture in the Baltics is this: if it’s ugly, gray, bleak, and/or box-shaped, the Soviets built it. Officially, the style is called Brutalism – which seems apropos.
Linguistically, Latvian is absolutely nothing like Estonian. Officially, Latvian is classified as one of only two Baltic Languages (the other is Lithuanian). Unofficially, it’s classified as moderately impossible.
Trying the National Drink of Latvia
Tried the national drink of Latvia tonight – Riga Black Balsam. Created by a pharmacist in 1752, Riga Black Balsam is an herbal bitter. And wow did they not skimp on the bitter. Tastes like Vicks 44D. Definitely do not need more of this. Our waitress at dinner said people drink it because it “can make you feel better”. Eh. Debatable.
Bonus: A couple street photography shots from Riga.
Terviseks! (Have not learned how to say cheers in Latvian yet.)
Travel date: April 7, 2025
Nice lunch! It’s hard to make out the blood sausages on that pan – they’re so black!
They were!! And my stomach did a flip-flop when I saw them. Do you like blood sausage?
Riga is quite a majestic city away from the Soviet blocks, plenty of art deco architecture and some amusing features, like the cat showing its ass to the local authority offices (at least I think that was in Riga!). We did the Black Balsam – Michaela shares your opinion completely (one taste, one write off) but I found it was OK as a chaser with the local beer.
Yes, the ass-cat is in Riga! We were told to try the black currant version, which is better, but not enough better to earn a spot in my suitcase coming home!
“I was very impressed with Tallinn. 9/10 – would absolutely recommend/revisit” is way more than a last word. To be exact it’s 10…plus two numbers. Might I recommend shortening it to either “recommend” or “revisitable” (but I’m not sure that’s a word so you may want to stick with my first recommendation). 💋Always trying to be helpful…or just trying.
Is this a “point of discussion”?? 😂
Am laughing! Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania are all tiny countries but are they way, way, way different! My mother came from a family of nine kids – all bar three married all over Europe and my fave auntie Hedwig married the then Latvian Head of Police – another uniform. So, I know!! Riga is actually very elegant – as are most of the people. Very highly educated as Estonians. Yea, the 50 years of Soviet slavery brought about some horrid architecture! Food should actually be pretty similar . . . and I could eat a good blood sausage every day. My paternal grandmother had a big ‘farm’ near Tartu (which you should visit the ‘next time’) and whenever I was ill as a child, she would have a pig killed and make both blood sausage and my very, very favourite blood pancakes > that was better than any antibiotic . . . still love it > hard to get in Australia as the English one is quite bland and different . . . thanks for the post . . .
Blood pancakes??? I’m terrified. 😊
They are absolutely beautiful . . . have some tiny speck-like pork bits in them and a bit of oats if I remember the recipe – my measles and scarlet fever et al medicine – my parents always laughed I had this huge swollen tummy ’cause I always said ‘Fry one more, one more’ . . . still love them!!! Just a query > do you love tripe > another of my big faves but more French style . . .
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