Looooonnnng day. Up before the sun this am for a wine tasting and cutural tour of the Douro River Valley.

Had coffee with a Tylenol chaser for breakfast. My creaky middle-age hips are screaming at me from all the hill-walking yesterday.

Our guide today, Carlos, used to be an air traffic controller for the Portuguese Air Force. Lots of timely discussion about the tragic plane crash in DC last night. My mind kept flashing back to Air Florida in 1982.

Stopped in the small-ish town of Amarante. Not much here save for the 16th century São Gonçalo church and monastery. Incredible Baroque gilding work. Tiny chapel with the tomb of the namesake priest beside the main altar. Saw a few older women come in and rub his chin (like some kind of magic lamp) and then deposit some $$ in the collection box. Apparently, they are hoping Gonçalo will grant their prayer for a mate. It was FREEZING in the church, so I kind of lost the thread after that.

Tasted at two Quintos (estates) today. Pro tip: you cannot taste at more than two wineries and still maintain a facade of decorum. We are on the edge of properly pickled.

So. Tasted first at Quinta do Bomfim, an estate owned by the Symington Family (big name fam in the world of Port). Bomfim only makes Port wine, and only for Dow’s Port.

Wonderful tasting – talked to our guide, Mariana, for quite a while. Her English was excellent. Asked her where she learned it – she said all Portuguese kids start learning English in kindergarten, which is when we should start language instruction in the US. Marianna said anyone under the age of 50 in Portugal speaks at least conversational English. If they tell you otherwise, they’re lying.

Learned that the letter Ç in Portuguese is pronounced “S”. Begs the question why not just use an S??

Ended up drunk-buying a bunch of Port – shipped it home. No room in my luggage. I can’t wait to see what I bought.

Next, a 3-course lunch with more wines at Quinto da Pachega. Lunch was lovely, but if I’m being honest, the still wines were unimpressive. Port wine is what shines here.

Starting to feel a little polluted now. And seriously dehydrated.

But wait, there’s MORE Port tasting. I’m too old for this pace of day-drinking. Bonus: our guide figured out I knew my way around a vineyard. So she went off-program, and brought out the 40-year old tawny and a couple of vintage Ports. Plus a pink Port just for fun. Delicious.

Ken found the vineyard dog, Pacheca. Because of course Ken found a dog.

Car ride home was nothing but military aircraft talk. I had zero to contribute. So I got to close my eyes for a bit.

Not that I needed any more alcohol – but at dinner tonight back in Porto, there was an old fashioned on the menu. Nicely done, Portugal.

Now: a Nurtec (to preempt the migraine I know is coming) and bed!

Saúde!

Travel date: January 30, 2025