Ken and I were exhausted last night. Can’t decide if it was jet lag or a Kobe beef coma. Probably some of both. 

We’re in Kochi, Japan today.

Arrived into port this morning to a very colorful, musical flag-waving welcome.

Ken: This song slaps! 🎶 
Me: I can’t believe you just said slaps.

Kochi Castle

We went on a ship sponsored excursion (aka herd bus tour) today to Kochi Castle, one of Japan’s few original castles surviving from the Edo period (1603–1868). During this time in Japanese history, things were relatively peaceful and stable under the Tokugawa Shogunate. Castles were built, cities grew, trade flourished. But remember: this was the era when Japan was run by feudal lords and samurai – and arguments were settled with swords.

For reference: Japan organizes its history into named eras (Edo period, Meiji period, etc.) – each one triggered by a genuine inflection point: a new emperor, a relocated capital, a shift in power, a cultural rupture. It’s not a calendar system. It’s an announcement that something fundamentally changed. The current era is Reiwa, which began in 2019 when Emperor Naruhito ascended the throne. Americans do something similar informally – we talk about the Gilded Age, the postwar boom, the Reagan era – but Japan made it official, and they’re still doing it.

Here’s how the basic power structure looked in Japan during the Edo period:

Running Up That Hill

It’s always funny to me when people sign up for a tour to see a very old castle and then seem genuinely surprised to find out that castles are located on TOP of very large hills. And if you want to see the castle, there’s only one direction: up. I wasn’t sure all of these folks were gonna make it. 

We weren’t even 20 stairs in, and there was near constant complaining from a group behind us. People were dropping like flies by step fifty. Ken: There are some whiny fuckers on this tour. 

For the record: I did not complain once. Because I know castles are on top of hills. 

Once we finally made it to the top of the hill and the castle entrance – having shed about nine members of our herd along the way – we were greeted by a bank of shoe lockers. Because shoes are not allowed inside the castle.

Why no shoes?

The castle is full of tatami mats, and walking on tatami mats with shoes is considered highly disrespectful. I’m all about being respectful, but I’m not swapping foot germs with hundreds of tourists, so socks it is. I’ll burn them later. 

Socks & Stairs

To reach the very top of the castle (because of course we’re going to the very top), you have to climb a series of very steep wooden ladder staircases. Socks and steep wooden stairs worn down by centuries of use aren’t a great combination. My GOD, they were slippery. I’m considering it a significant personal accomplishment that I made it all the way up and all the way down without falling. And btw, going down was way worse than going up.

On our way down the castle hill, Ken admired a carp sculpture on one of the castle roof ridges. He was slightly disappointed they didn’t sell them in the castle gift shop. Missed revenue opportunity for the castle.

King of the Castle

Ah, and here we have the King of the Castle himself, Lord Yamauchi Kazutoyo. See that magnificent horse he’s riding? When Kazutoyo was still a relatively poor and unknown samurai, his wife Chiyo quietly saved money from her household allowance and bought it for him. Because Chiyo understood that arriving at samurai meetings on an unimpressive horse was a career-limiting move.

The horse worked. It caught the attention of Kazutoyo’s lord, Oda Nobunaga – one of the most powerful men in Japan – and helped launch Kazutoyo’s rise through the samurai ranks. He eventually became one of the most celebrated lords of the Edo period.

Way to go, Chiyo.

As we were leaving the castle grounds, we passed a group of Japanese school children on a field trip – all in matching red hats. All except one little girl who had clearly decided to make her own statement in a black hat. Respect.

Waves were exchanged, all around. 👋

Katsurahama Beach

Back on the herd bus for a stop at Kochi’s Katsurahama Beach. We were immediately cautioned not to go swimming because the current there is extremely dangerous. Wasn’t planning on jumping in, but thanks for the heads up.

Popped into a souvenir shop hoping for some candy (Japanese candy is outstanding). No candy, but plenty of dried fish snacks. Ugh. I still have PTSD from the dried salted squid snack at the fish market in Tokyo. No, thank you.

This evening: traditional music and dance at the port to send us off. Kochi came in strong today.

Tomorrow: The hot springs of Beppu.

Kanpai! 🍶