The temperature is above freezing this morning. Happy dance!! Today’s focus: learning about life in Lithuania under Soviet rule. Our guide, Svetlana, was a teenager during the 1980s, so she has strong memories and feelings. The first feeling she shared with us: “We lived here in a prison, and we didn’t know it was a prison.”
Svetlana also does not walk slowly.
Ugly architecture aside, it can be difficult to find a lot of specific reminders of Soviet times in Lithuania – because after 1991, the Lithuanians removed almost all of them. No love for the Russians around here.
KGB Headquarters
Walked (with a sense of urgency) by the old KGB Headquarters (now a museum) in Vilnius. Thousands of Lithuanians were executed in the basement of that building during Soviet times. Did not go inside the museum because I don’t need to see the room(s) where it happened. Also, Svetlana was already 15 steps ahead of us.
The Barricades Memorial
Svetlana wrapped up our fast-walking tour at the Barricades Memorial – the spot where, in 1991, everyday Lithuanians in 1991 said, “Not today, Soviet Union,” and built a DIY fortress around their Parliament. They used whatever they could find – cement blocks, junker cars, stacked tires, and probably someone’s living room furniture – to stand between tanks and their emerging freedom.
Sidebar: Almost died of asphyxiation in a Bolt (Baltic Uber) car, which was driven by a guy who smelled like he hadn’t bathed since Soviet times.
Tried to do some more shopping this afternoon, but came up mostly empty. Didn’t really see anything that I had to have. I know, it came as a shock to me, too.
Another Organ Concert
Took dad to our third organ concert of the trip this evening – an organ and choral performance of Franz Liszt’s, Via Crucis. The only thing I know about Franz Liszt is that he wrote music. And after listening to this concert, I know he didn’t write especially uplifting music. Talented organist and choir, but wow, was that bleak.
Lithuania is a beer country, and the beer has been excellent. More traditional Lithuanian food tonight for dinner. I think I’m done with potatoes for a while.
Back to München tomorrow.
Į sveikatą ! 
Travel date: April 12, 2025
Laughed at your description of your fragrant driver 😂. We did go into the KGB museum, the former slaughter house…the “joke” apparently used to be that the cells had an amazing view, because once inside you could see Siberia. Also, inside the prison, you walk down the corridor (narrow) and because of the cramped space you can only enter the last cell, the only open cell, one at a time. After you walk in, caught by a sensor, a recording of the door slamming shut behind you plays out. It absolutely scared the shit out of me!!
Oh I would have freaked right then and there. I’m equal parts fascinated and terrified by the Soviet times in the Baltics!!
And I am writing and NOT exaggerating from my childhood at the end of 1930s and beginning of 1940s . . . the story was exactly the same in all the three Baltic countries and if I tried to tell you the real truths you guide would not have known or been able to comprehend, you would be certain I should be certified. No joke, no exaggeration! Once you see people mutilated on the street by drunk soldiers and babies bashed to death against house walls . . . besides being bombed every clear night for year after year after year . . . you are almost ready for anything the rest of your life may bring! Amen!
The Baltic people have endured so much in their collective histories. The stories of endurance are inspiring, though.
Another funny, but interesting read. Your blogs always make me laugh 😀