Road trip to Lithuania today. We’re on our way from Riga, Latvia to Vilnius, Latvia. Another new country for all of us! (This brings my country count to 39. Ken is at 34. Not that anyone is keeping track.)
Pit Stop
First stop – unscheduled – the castle of unknown significance. Our driver said this stop was, “just for a picture”, which I am pretty sure translates to “driver smoke break”. I walked about 100 yards and decided, nope, too cold for castle shit today. Went back to the warm van.
Rundale Palace
Next stop: Rundale Palace, a baroque summer palace built in 1736 for the Duke of Something Pretty Important. Built by the same architect who designed the Summer Palace in St. Petersburg. It’s beautiful and gaudy at the same time. There’s a “vase room”, which was a must-have for all 18th century aristocrats. Found some wallpaper to envy.
Surprise Border Check
Got stopped at the Lithuanian border by grumpy Lithuanian police for a full passport check. Haven’t had that experience in a long time. Driver said they stop all vans – looking for illegal immigrants (usually workers from one of the “stan” counties in Central Asia).
Ken’s description of our driver today: “We are in a van in rural Lithuania with a chain-smoking Latvian driving like he wants out of the next census.”
Hill of Crosses
And, in what has to be one of the creepiest cultural experiences I’ve ever had: the Hill of Crosses in northern Lithuania. It is literally a hill . . . of crosses. It started in 1841 as a peasant uprising against the Russians, and grew to a symbol of defiance during Soviet occupation. Supposedly, there are over 100,000 crosses on this hill. Cannot confirm – way too cold and windy to count crosses today. Many of the crosses are covered in rosaries – which make a super eerie sound in 40mph winds. I am absolutely sure this place is haunted.
Arrival in Vilnius
Made it to our hotel in Vilnius. Have already done some successful amber shopping – karma restored. Huzzah!
Tried the traditional Lithuanian Cepelinai (zeppelin) dish tonight. It’s a potato dumpling stuffed with a cottage cheese and sour cream mixture. Yummy, but very rich and very filling.
Not sure how I can be so tired if all I did today was sit in a car, but, 
.
Cheers!
Travel date: April 10, 2025
First, holy shit…while reading I pictured nicely laid out crosses in rows…certainly not that!
Secondly, isn’t Duke of Something Pretty Important what Ken wants you to call him?
😂😂
Actually Kirsten – both of the places are very important in the Baltics. The Rundale or Ruhenthal Castle is equivalent in looks and story to many we regard as necessary places to visit during European journeys, say in France or England . . . and the Hill of Crosses surely is one of the world’s greatest proofs what belief in national belonging, religion, hope, prayer, trust and a sense of never giving up leads to . . . it IS a UNESCO World heritage site l unfortunately have never been to, but me and mine go down on our knees when we think and talk of it . . . to each their own . . .
A second try as the first did not seem to print. Both of the places you have mentioned are actually of considerable importance in the Baltics. The Rundale or Ruhenthal Castle is quite equivalent in history and importance to any castle travellers to Europe may decide to visit say in France or England – a beautiful building with usually very well-kept surrounds and interesting history. The Hill of Crosses, to me and many, is a holy place, a UNESCO Heritage Site after all, where nationalism, religion, belief in the past and hope for the future, honouring those who have lost their lives for others and worthwhile causes, all come to remind and make us think. I have never had the good fortune to go and kneel as others I know have. To each their own . . . .I wish to God I had had the good fortune . . . .
My apologies – the first copy finally came up – please delete this and the second copy.
Yes I remember the zeppelin, I felt as if I’d swallowed a paving slab after I’d eaten it. We Vilnius’d during COVID, masks everywhere, documents check to get in every bar, steamed up spectacles all the bloody time. Snowy too. Cool city though, liked it. Even though the delightful looking specialist hot chocolate cafe which we saved till the last morning had run out of….chocolate.
That’s a perfect way to describe how the zeppelin lands in your stomach! And no chocolate?? The worst.
I’ve been hoping you’d leave a comment on our post from the oasis. If you read it you’ll see why 😂
My internet has been ASS for the past couple of days. So not my wheelhouse. I’ll get on my cell phone and check it out!
[…] to do some more shopping this afternoon, but came up mostly empty. Didn’t really see anything that I had to have. I know, […]
[…] So, the Hill of Three Crosses – Ken said it was honestly a bit of a letdown after you’ve seen the Hill of 10 Million Crosses. […]