Exploring Riga today – on a walking tour. I am so freaking cold. 
All of these Baltic women walking around in furs are starting to look pretty smart. You know what would be really handy? If menopausal women could summon a hot flash on demand. 
Sidebar: Breakfast fish (Baltic herring) is tough to face first thing in the morning. Oooof. Feeling grateful for toast.
Our guide’s name this morning is Artūrs, which is the Latvian form of Arthur. Artūrs told us that in Latvia you add an ‘S’ to the end of all male names. Am now calling Ken – Kens.
Learning a bit more about life in Latvia during the Soviet occupation. Artūrs told us that the last Latvian political prisoner was arrested by the Soviets in 1983. His crime? Owning a copy of George Orwell’s 1984, which was considered anti-Soviet propaganda. He died in prison in 1990. He was so close to seeing the Soviets exit, stage left.
Organ Intermission
Took dad to another organ concert today – at the Dome Cathedral in Riga. Definitely one of the most spectacular organs I’ve ever seen. And the organist was super impressive.
Riga’s Art Nouveau District
This afternoon, we took a tour of the Art Nouveau District, (Riga has the largest concentration of art nouveau architecture in Europe), and the Moscow District, with our guide, Edvards. See? Edvard, but with an ‘S’. Good grief, this kid spoke flawless English. He also had a pretty great fur hat. Once home to a large Jewish population, the Moscow District became the Jewish ghetto for Riga during WWII. It’s also home to the Latvian Academy of Sciences, nicknamed “Stalin’s Birthday Cake” for obvious reasons.
Ukrainian flags fly alongside Latvian flags everywhere in the city. Edvards says the Latvian people are steadfast in their support of Ukraine. The government of Latvia renamed the street where the Russian embassy is located to: Independent Ukraine Street. Well played, Latvia. 
Soviet Architecture
Saw some more examples of Soviet architecture in Riga. A staggering 60 percent of the residents still live in decaying Soviet era housing units. Surprise of the day: Edvards told us there are different periods/styles to Soviet architecture. Dang. And here I thought it all fell under the umbrella of “Communist Despair”. Stay tuned for my post on Soviet architecture in the Baltics.
Sidebar: Traveling with four men has really put a damper on my shopping time. Too much “supervision”. Need to find a couple of hours tomorrow where I can get out on my own to support the economy of Latvia.
Travel date: April 8, 2025
Beautiful photos. Such stunning color. In Spain, I got really tired of facing bread with garlic, tomatoes, and anchovies. I like them, but not EVERY day!!!
We were really surprised a how charming Riga’s historic centre is, given the old Soviet block apartments are crumbling as you also saw. Maggie
Riga’s historic center is lovely. But I felt like there was a lot more legacy Soviet feel to Riga than Tallinn. Did you find the same?
Yes, definitely.
Damn, I thought women could have hot spells on demand. Every time I wanted to be, how shall I put it, “friendly” with my wife she would say she couldn’t due to a hot flash. Think she was making that up? I’m so gullible.
Glad you saw some of the ‘proper’ architecture – some lovely photos here. Am also pleased you experienced another church concert even if that is not your usual fare. Such are a big thing in all the hugely music loving Baltics. Am having breakfast as I write – very similar to your second photo except with raw salmon . . .
You can have ALL of the raw salmon . . .
Wow, I had no idea that there were actual styles of Soviet architecture. “Communist Despair” is the perfect description of the Soviet buildings I’ve seen around the world. I think Baltic herring would be tough to face any time of the day.
I’m working on a post about the different styles of Soviet architecture – stay tuned!
Yeah we did a self guided version of the architectural walking tour. Was a bit like doing a treasure hunt, but enhanced when we stumbled on the best restaurant of the trip.
What was the best restaurant??
I can’t remember the full name but it was something to do with a frog 🤷🏻♂️