🇪🇸 A (Short) Day in Córdoba: The Mosque-Cathedral & Filigree

The ladies are off on a day trip to Córdoba today. It’s threatening to rain later. And you know the best way to keep the rain away? Pack an umbrella in your bag. Fingers crossed.

But first: breakfast at the shooting estancia. Beautiful taxidermy of the Spanish red-legged partridge. I would be OK with this guy in my house.

The owners of the estancia found this Roman head sculpture (I wondered if there was ever a torso) and various Roman columns when they were excavating and remodeling. The only thing I found when we remodeled our kitchen was a Gatorade bottle from 2006.

Look at these candelabras just casually hanging out with the Roman head. Gorgeous. I really need to up my candlestick game. I wouldn’t mind a Roman head, either.

Trying to coordinate with our driver to Córdoba before we left this am, and quickly exhausted all of my usable Español. Have resorted to Google translate. Feeling defeated. But I think we got it all sorted. Or we could end up stranded in Córdoba. Could go either way.

Mosque Cathedral in Córdoba

Had a great day in Córdoba – only regret is not having more time, especially in the Mosque–Cathedral. Truly one of the most remarkable places I’ve ever seen. Spectacular.

The mosque was built in 785, and converted into a cathedral in 1236 after Córdoba was captured by the Christians at the Reconquista. In a somewhat surprising move, the Christians decided not to bulldoze the mosque, but to preserve it and “rededicate” it as a Catholic cathedral. Super thankful for that stroke of historic preservation – it’s a masterpiece.

Traditional Córdoban Filigree

Got to visit a traditional Córdoban filigree jewelry maker. What a process that is. Incredibly tedious. I would go blind trying to fit those tiny delicate pieces into place. The artist models his work on the art and glass in the Córdoba cathedral. Super impressive. His family has been doing filigree for 4 generations. But after him, he says the business will close, because most filigree today is machine made, and his sons have no interest in making jewelry as a trade. I did my best to help the tradition by buying several of his pieces.

Update: we found our bus driver for our pick-up in Córdoba, and it did not rain on us. Call the day a success.

Waiting to hear how the shooters did today.

Salud!

10 comments

  1. Well my friend I have lots to say here. One, that’s the first time I’ve seen “breakfast” and “stuffed red legged partridge” in the same paragraph. Two, some heavy duty iron candlesticks mounted on our chimney breast are among my favourites of the millions of things brought home from travel (from a blacksmiths in Tallinn). Three, I thought “filligree” was sexy underwear but maybe my memory is going 😂and I’m getting words mixed up. Four, Cordoba is one of the Spanish cities I haven’t yet been to. May have to put that right. Sounds bueno.

    • Glad I could provide you with a good “first”. We will be in Tallinn next week. Did not have it on my shopping bingo card, but will keep an eye out for candelabras. And OK, I’ll admit I just Google’d filigree underwear: “In the context of underwear, “filigree” typically refers to the use of intricate, delicate lace or embroidery as a design element. This lace can be used to cover the entire piece or as accents on the edges or straps.” So there we have it! And yes, you gotta get to Cordoba – for longer than a day!

Leave a Reply