Had a free day in Tromsø today. Walked around town, did some shopping, and searched out the grocery and liquor stores, two places I always try to visit when we travel. I could browse them for hours. Ken is … less enthusiastic.

At the market, there was an entire row dedicated to canned fish/fishy things. And this mystery: Kaviar in a tube. Later learned this is creamed, smoked cod roe. Normally, I’m a big fan of condiments in a tube. But this? Hardest of all passes.

Liquor stores in Norway are state-run and highly regulated. You can buy beer at a grocery store, but anything above 4.75% ABV has to be sold at the state monopoly store. You want wine or spirits after 6pm, or anytime between Saturday at 3pm and Monday morning? Too bad. It’s forbidden. I bought some aquavit (Norway’s national spirit) for my dad, and some Arctic Norwegian gin for me. But overall, the selection was slim, and the prices high.

Tromsø has an absurd number of barber/haircut places. Pretty sure there are two shops for every one head of hair in Tromsø.

I found the Norwegian gnomes!! I was good and only bought one. Trolls still dominate around here. Have not grown on me in the least. Still creepy as hell.

Had the “local favorite” Norwegian pizza for lunch. Was told it was sausage and cabbage with spicy mustard sauce. It’s safe to assume any “sausage” around here is reindeer (maybe whale). It was, um, unusual.

Tonight, we boarded this jaunty piece of aviation to fly 500 miles east, to the far more isolated Arctic town of Kirkenes. Landed on a literal ice and snow runway. Already looking forward to taking off on that surface in a few days.

Tonight, we’ll be staying overnight in the ice hotel. All the rooms are made of ice, and kept at a constant 28 degrees. This is me stepping waaaay outside of my comfort zone in the name of adventure. My first question: is there a place for me to evacuate if I can’t stand it? Second question: Is there vodka?

Stay tuned.