Still BRRRR today, but calmer winds. Quick stroll through the flower market to get my blood moving – my Estonian mittens have paid for themselves already on this trip. One of the best ways to learn about a culture is through food and drink. So whenever we visit a new country, we always try to do a walking food tour – and today’s Tallinn walking food tour was a home run!

We tried so many different Estonian foods and drinks – things you would never be exposed to if you didn’t have a guide. Just as valuable – spending time talking to our guide, Peter, who is originally from St. Louis, but lived in Finland for 25 years before moving to Estonia (with his Estonian wife) in 2015. So, Peter speaks both Finnish and Estonian – two of the most difficult languages on the planet. Respect, Peter.

Highlights:

Stop 1 – Reval Café: Pickled sprat (Baltic herring) & boiled egg sandwich. Nopity nope nope. Ate one bite, choked it down with water. Almost came back up. But Dad? He LOVED it! Also potato salad (not bad) and a Tang colored juice made from sea buckhorn berry (meh).

Stop 2 – Chocolada: Estonian artisan chocolate. The shop started in 1992 after the exit of the Soviets, and has won numerous international awards. I had a local birch syrup truffle (tasted like salted caramel) and a juniper gin truffle (tasted like a bite of gin). Outstanding.

Stop 3 – III Draakon: A kitschy medieval tavern with a spirited staff. Elk stew (actually excellent) and an apple bun (more like a turnover, also excellent). Did not try the wild boar bun. Still traumatized by the tiny fish-skin sandwich.

Stop 4 – Café Maiasmokk: One of the oldest cafés in Tallinn – it’s been operating continuously since 1864. Also has a marzipan room/museum. Did not get to try any marzipan. Sadness. Tried something called a kama breakfast drink. Kama is a traditional Estonian mixed grain flour. You mix it with buttermilk and jam for a healthy breakfast drink. Was not expecting to like this this, but loved it. Peter found a grocery store and helped us find some Kama to take home with us.

Stop 5 – Balti Jaam Market: Walked across the tracks (literally) to the Balti Jaam Market, which houses over 300 vendors. We had our choice of coffee or hot tea with a shot of Vana Tallinn, the traditional Estonian liqueur made with rum and 17 secret spices. I opted for tea – and it was a damn solid beverage.

Stop 6 – Kivi Paber Käärid: Walked outside of the medieval town walls to Telliskivi, an area of old warehouses turned arts district. Stopped in at a pub called Kivi Paber Käärid. No idea how to pronounce that. I had a pretty solid rhubarb (which is everywhere here) sparkling wine. Craft beer (a growing scene in Estonia) for everyone else.

After saying goodbye to Peter, we walked around for a bit to take in some of the art murals and installations. If we ever return to Tallinn, I’m definitely going to spend more time in Telleskivi.

Footnote: Peter recommended we try a dry rye vodka martini at our hotel bar before dinner tonight. Holy new favorite drink! Ive never been a vodka drinker, but this is incredible. And *of course* I bought a bottle of Estonian rye vodka to take home with me.

Terviseks!

Travel date: April 6, 2025.