We are exploring Tallinn today. Went on a 2-1/2 hour walking history tour this am. Our guide, Jonas, is an archaeology and history teacher, originally from Iceland, but married to an Estonian. He was a phenomenal guide.

It is legit FREEZING in Estonia today. 18 degrees this morning, with a ferocious wind. Super happy I bought those wool mittens yesterday. But even with my mittens, I couldn’t feel my fingers. Jonas, however, was not bothered by the cold at all – “we call this a spring day in Iceland.”

Interesting juxtaposition of architecture between the Gothic old town Tallinn, and the bleak, Soviet-era, “box buildings”. God, those buildings are ugly.

The Estonian people have spent most of their existence as an occupied people. And they still live in the shadow of perpetually possible invasion from Russia. It’s crazy even to think about.

Jonas told us all Estonians have a national alert system on their phones (think: Amber alert) that tells them what to do and where to go in the event of a Russian attack. So that’s a sound you never want to hear on your phone. Jonas pointed out the many well-marked bunkers (blue triangle on an orange background) that dot the city. Have already located the bunker closest to our hotel.

⛪ Alexander Nevsky Cathedral: A Symbol of Contention

Walked through the Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It was built around 1900, when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. The Russians intentionally built the cathedral directly across from Toompea Castle, the seat of the Estonian government. Estonians aren’t wild about the cathedral because they see it as a symbol of Soviet occupation. Beautiful building, but I get the sentiment. Also: no pictures allowed inside, which always makes me a little cranky.

Walked by the Russian Embassy. No ambassador there – he was kicked out of Estonia after the Russian invasion of Ukraine. An ongoing silent protest in front of the embassy persists. I bought all of us Ukrainian flag lapel pins before we left for this trip, and super glad I did. The Estonian people are resolute in their support for Ukraine, and their opposition to the government of Russia. Slava Ukraini!

🎶 Organ Concert at Niguliste Museum (St. Nicholas Church)

This afternoon, we took dad to an organ concert at the Nigueliste Museum, which used to be the St. Nicholas Church, built in the 13th century. It was mostly destroyed in the Soviet bombings of 1944, and hasn’t been used as a church since. Today, it’s a museum showcasing an impressive collection of ecclesiastical art from the Middle Ages. Dad was in his ELEMENT.

Trying to avoid the many, MANY shops of Baltic amber in Tallinn. Only because I learned that Baltic amber doesn’t come from Estonia at all, but from Lithuania. Will do my best to help the economy of Lithuania in a few days.

A great day exploring Tallinn – looking forward to seeing more tomorrow!

Terviseks!

Travel date: April 5, 2025