Travel date: May 3, 2024

Rain, rain, rain.

Had planned to go hiking today, but had to pivot.

This morning’s task was figuring out our German washing machine, which, btw, is also a dryer, and located six inches from the toilet. You can fit one t-shirt and three pairs of underwear in there. Push start, and it will be ready in three short hours.

Sidebar: I always forget how much Europe loves its cigarettes. I’ve been forced to take up second hand smoking this week, and it’s vile.

Indoor activity: walking through the Residenz, the former seat of the Austrian prince-archbishops. Stunning Baroque interior – used a scheiße ton of gold paint. Accidentally found ourselves at exactly the right place and exactly right time to listen to a brief organ concert in the Dom Salzburg. Even better, we were upstairs in the Dom museum when the concert was about to start, and they opened a balcony for us, so we had perfect seats. I felt so connected with my mom for that time. Feeling grateful for the rain and our change of plans.

Sidebar: In the museum, there was a hands-on station where you could dress up and try on wigs and hats from the era. Put on a wig that 10,000 other people have had on their heads? Ooooh. Hard pass.

From there, to the Augustiner Braü for a traditional beer garden experience. Sat inside because of the rain, but it was super fun. All of the locals were dressed in traditional clothing. We felt conspicuous. Stone steins filled with beer flavored beer. Prost! AND – I finally found my radi!!! Absolutely gorged myself. So satisfying.

Had a taste-off of Mozartkugeln, or Mozart Balls, this evening – marzipan, pistachio and nougat, covered in chocolate. They were invented by Paul Furst in 1890 to commemorate Mozart’s death. And while Furst was good at chocolate, he was not good at business. He forgot to file a patent. Which is why there are several dozen versions of Mozart Balls for sale in Salzburg today. We tried the brand available at all the grocery stores vs. Furst. Not even a contest. Furst all the way.

Oh!! Found my absolute favorite cookie at the grocery store – Bahlsen ABC cookies. Memory from my childhood. Have already eaten an entire bag.

Trying the hike plan again tomorrow.

Prost!